Sunday, January 17, 2010


We left the coast on Friday (I think it was Friday?) and set out with hopes of making it to Zacatecas before dark. Alas, wind-ey roads, missed turns, oxxo stops resulted in a layover in Aguascalientes. It was not easy leaving Sayulita and its charms. I think the weather helped us along because on the day of departure we awoke to clouds and rain. We had a strange drive in the cold and rain. I was ok with the night in Aguascalientes, because the next morning we walked up to the Museo de la Muerte, which is a new museum documenting this country's fascination with death. Growing up in a fairly death-phobic culture, I have always been intrigued by the way that death is placed in unexpected, familiar, playful settings in Mexican popular culture. You wouldn't think that a museum about death would be existentially refreshing, but it was for me. YMMV. A. really seemed to enjoy it. So much amazing art:

We did finally make it back to Zacatecas. The city kinda feels like a home away from home. Coming back this time was a little bit different than before. There are now quite a few memories accumulated here--people, places, etc. Traffic is the same, as is the guerra de estacionamiento. I nearly blacked out from the stress of driving narrow cobble street gridlock for an hour. As Daddy observed, "Henry Ford didn't do these folks any favors."

It is cold up here on the altiplano. Well, it isn't really all that cold for Nevada gringos, but Mexicans are fairly freaked by the sub-freezing temps. It is the big news down here. Everyone is decked out in heavy coats, hats, scarves, gloves, blankets, etc. A., of course, doesn't want to wear any warm clothes at all. So, when we go out walking, and she's in shirt sleeves, people look at us like we are child abusers. I find myself wanting her to please put a coat on, not because I care if she freezes, just because I don't want to look like a monster. No matter. There are huge, beautiful blue skies overhead and tomorrow, we will continue our reconnoiter--settling on housing, finding a good Catholic school for A., and visiting the university.


  1. Ah, the warm blooded little ones. Ruby ran around this weekend on the museum roof with no coat, despite the impending storm that was brewing over the mountains.

    Let us know when you have an address; we have a package to send to Ava.

  2. Yeah, Ava told me yesterday, "Daddy, you don't understand. I'm hot-blooded!" The best thing would be to mail to Debbie's folks. Marcia is coming down in early February and she can bring it. My limited experience of Mexican mail suggests that she would beat it down here! Ava is already strategizing ways to get Ruby herself down here...

    I hope you guys are getting some snow, and not just rain. It seems silly, but I saw the Reno forecast yesterday and felt like I was missing out on a good storm. It has warmed up to honest shirt-sleeve weather here.

  3. Oops, I meant to say that I'll email you Bob and Marcia's address...