Friday, March 12, 2010
Travels within travels within travels...
The bus ride was actually nice. We rode the super-lujo ETN, which has wifi, lunch, and big chairs which recline. A. was freaking out about the prospect of riding the bus. Seriously. D. didn't quite enjoy it as much as we did. We stayed in a fancy hotel on Reforma, the D.F.'s Champs Elysées. The first night, we attended a reception for the Fulbright scholars. We weren't there for two minutes before A. had run off with a gaggle of kids to play escondas and Simon dice. I spent the night alternately chasing after her and after the buffet and open bar. That's why I know virtually nothing about the other Fulbrighters. Ava did make a fast friend, M., whose folks are Fulbrighting in Oaxaca. They were basically inseparable for the rest of our stay, touring, building forts, and comparing Polly Pockets.
The next day, we tagged along with M. and her dad on a tour to Teotihuacán. I think I can count the number of organized tours I've taken on one hand (finger?), but it was great and caused me to rethink my opinions of touristing. We went to the Plaza de Tres Culturas at Tlatelolco (which I've never seen. Site of some great massacres through history), La Villa (where the image of La Guadalupana, Reina de Mexico, Emperatriz del las Americas, etc. resides), and on to the incomparable Teotihuacán.
Some my earliest memories are of climbing the pyramids here, when I was five, or so. Remarkably, they seem unchanged. They are still huge, steep, and breath-taking. The scale of the constructions is difficult to get your head around. The Pyramid of the Moon was constructed over 300 years. They built a new layer each century (52 years, according to the progress of the Fourth World). M. helped A. figure out the basics of pyramid climbing. I was by far the most nervous one, trying to keep A.'s hand on the cable and to keep her from running.